Showing posts with label freshwater tank. Show all posts
Showing posts with label freshwater tank. Show all posts

Monday, March 19, 2012

Crystal Red Shrimp


(This link above is where I found all of the information and photos below!!)

ommon NameCrystal Red Shrimp, Red Bee Shrimp, or CRS
Scientific Nam
e
Caridina cf. cantonensis sp. "Crystal Red"
Adult Size2.5-3.0 CM or 1.0-1.2 inches
Water Temp20°-25° C or 68°-77° F
pH Range6.5-7.2
Water HardnessSoft
Fresh or Salt WaterFreshwater
Larval StageNone. Young hatch as miniature versions of the adults
DifficultyMedium-Hard
Egg/Saddle ColorRed
BehaviorNon-aggressive

General Information

Crystal Red Shrimp are a recessive mutation of the Bee Shrimp. In the early 90's Hisayasu Suzuki of Japan discovered a single Red Bee Shrimp in a batch of about a thousand. The first Red Bee Shrimp died but several generations later three more appeared. Hisayasu Suzuki was able to successfully breed these shrimp and subsequently named them Crystal Red Shrimp.

Appearance

Crystal Shrimp have bands of red and white on them. Crystal Red Shrimp have been selectively bred over time to increase the amount and intensity of the white. This has led to a "grading" scale for Crystal Shrimp. Higher grade Crystal Shrimp are generally more sensitive to water conditions and are not as prolific as lower grade Bee Shrimp. This is most likely due to the intense inbreeding required to achieve the higher grades.





Red Cherry Shrimp


(This link above is where I found all of the information and photos below!!)

Common NameRed Cherry Shrimp
Scientific NameNeocaridina Heteropoda var. Red
Adult Size2.5-3.0 CM or 1.0-1.2 inches
Water Temp15°-30° C or 60°-85° F
pH Range6.5-8.0
Water HardnessSoft-Hard
Fresh or Salt WaterFreshwater
Larval StageNone. Young hatch as miniature versions of the adults
DifficultyEasy
Egg/Saddle ColorYellow
BehaviorNon-aggressive

General Information

Cherry Shrimp are currently the most popular dwarf shrimp in the hobby. This is due to their hardiness, attractive color, and prolific breeding rate. Cherry Shrimp are also one of the cheapest dwarf shrimp available as they have been in the hobby for several years and are easily bred.

The red color of the Cherry Shrimp was bred from wild Neocaridina Heteropoda, a native of Southern Asia. The red coloring does not occur in the wild.

Appearance

Cherry Shrimp are red (obviously). The intensity ranges from almost clear to blood red. Adult females are generally the most red individuals. Selective breeding can be done to intensify the red.




Amano Shrimp


So, I like to post things about what I have in my fish tank because it is constantly changing and this is a nice way to keep track of what I have had over the years... get me?

(This link above is where I found all of the information and photos below!!)

Common NameAmano Shrimp
Scientific NameCaridina Multidentata
Adult Size4.0-5.0 CM or 1.5-2.0 inches
Water Temp15°-30° C or 60°-85° F
pH Range6.5-8.0
Water HardnessSoft-Hard
Fresh or Sal
t Water
Freshwater
Larval StageLarval stage that requires brackish to full seawater.
DifficultyEasy
Egg/Saddle ColorLight yellowish
BehaviorNon-aggressive? See below

General Information

Amano Shrimp are the dwarf shrimp that started it all. They were made famous by Takashi Amano when he started using them in his planted tanks for algae control. Amano shrimp are the best algae eating dwarf shrimp available. Amanos also get larger then other dwarf shrimp making them an excellent choice for tanks with fish that may eat smaller shrimp species.

Amano Shrimp are voracious eaters and will attack any food you add to the tank. I have even seen them swim up to the top of the tank, flip upside down, and grab flakes off the surface of the water. They also enjoy grabbing up food and running away with it to eat it where other shrimp will not be able to steal it from them.

Amano Shrimp are stronger then most other dwarf shrimp and are capable of moving around when they are out of the water (not very well though). They will sometimes wonder out of the tank and across your floor so be aware of this. If possible I suggest having a top on the tank or leaving the water level a little lower to make it more difficult for them to climb out. Of the 50 or so I put into my 120p ADA tank, I have lost maybe one a month when it decided to go exploring.

Some people believe that Amanos do not make good tankmates with other dwarf shrimp. They claim Amano Shrimp may prey on the young of other dwarf shrimp. I have not noticed this behavior and I don't not know anyone who has actually seen it occur. I have both Amano Shrimp and Wild Type Neocaridina Shrimp in a tank together, and have not noticed this behavior.

Appearance

Amano Shrimp are not very colorful. They are usually a clearish tank color. They also have spots running down their sides.

Breeding

Unfortunately Amano Shrimp are not easy to breed, and only a few people have taken the time to try and breed them. The larva apparently requires full strength saltwater within a few days of hatching. The newborn larva feed on plankton and other small particulates in the water. As they grow they can be fed larger food.



Thursday, June 30, 2011

I've got cardinal tetras...


The cardinal tetra, Paracheirodon axelrodi, is a freshwater fish of the characin family (family Characidae) of order Characiformes. It is native to the upper Orinoco and Negro Rivers in South America.

Growing to about 3 cm (1.25 in) total length, the cardinal tetra has the striking iridescent blue line characteristic of the Paracheirodonspecies laterally bisecting the fish, with the body below this line being vivid red in color, hence the name "cardinal tetra". The cardinal tetra's appearance is similar to that of the closely related neon tetra, with which it is often confused; the neon's red coloration extends only about halfway to the nose, and the neon's blue stripe is a less vibrant blue, however.

The cardinal tetra is a very popular aquarium fish but is less widespread than the neon tetra because until recently it was difficult to breed in captivity. However, many breeders are now producing the fish; in most cases one can determine if the cardinal tetra is bred or wild caught due to damaged fins on wild caught specimens. Normally aquarists prefer to buy tank bred fish but some Brazilian ichthyologists believe that fishkeepers should continue to support the sustainable Cardinal fishery of the Amazon basin, since thousands of people are employed in the region to capture fish for the aquarium trade. It has been suggested that if those fishermen lost their livelihood catching Cardinals and other tropical fish, they might turn their attention to engaging in deforestation.

The fish might also be effectively an annual species and may have a lifespan of just a single year in nature. It lives for several years in captivity.

An entire industry is in place in Barcelos on the banks of Brazil's Rio Negro in which the local population catches fish for the aquarium trade. The cardinal fishery here is highly valued by the local people who act as stewards for the environment. It may be said that the local people do not become involved in potentially environmentally damaging activities, such as deforestation, because they can make a sustainable living from the fishery.

Perhaps due to their wild-caught origins, cardinal tetras tend to be somewhat delicate in captivity. In the wild, these fish inhabit extremely soft, acidic waters, but seem to be tolerant of harder, more alkaline water conditions; a greater concern is probably polluted tank water (including high nitrate levels.) They prefer warmer water temperatures (in the upper 70s F or warmer (20°C)), and will readily accept most forms of dry food. Captive-bred cardinals tend to adapt to hard water better than wild-caught cardinals.

P. axelrodi is also often called the red neon tetra. Cheirodon axelrodi (the original name) and Hyphessobrycon cardinalis are obsolete synonyms. The fish's common name, cardinal tetra, refers to the brilliant red coloration, reminiscent of a cardinal's robes.

Given the origins of the cardinal tetra, namely blackwater rivers whose chemistry is characterised by an acidic pH, low mineral contentand the presence of humic acids, the species is adaptable to a wide range of conditions in captivity, though deviation from the soft, acidic water chemistry of their native range will impact severely upon breeding and fecundity. The preferred temperature range of the fish is 21°C to 28°C (70°F to 82°F). The water chemistry of the aquarium water should match that of the wild habitat - filtration of the aquarium water over peat is one means of achieving this.

As the species is a shoaling species in the wild, groups of six or more individuals should be maintained in an aquarium. They will shoal with their close cousins neon tetras however, so a combination of these two species totalling at least six should suffice. Tank currents can help encourage shoaling behavior. The larger the numbers present in an aquarium (subject to the usual constraints imposed by space and filtration efficiency), the better, and large shoals in any case form an impressive and visually stunning display.

The species will feed upon a wide range of aquarium foods, though again, conditioning fishes of this species for breeding will usually require the use of live foods such as Daphnia.

Aquarium furnishings should be planned with some care. Live aquatic plants, as well as providing an additional biological filtration component that assists with nitrate management in the aquarium, provide an environment that resembles at least part of the wild habitat, and fine-leaved plants such as Cabomba are usually the plants of choice, though other plants such as Amazon Swordplants and Vallisneria are equally suitable for an aquarium housing the cardinal tetra. Floating plants providing shade will also be welcomed by the species: this is connected with the breeding of the fish, which will now be covered. A perfect biotope to promote breeding, would be lots of bogwood, a few live native plants, with dark substrate and subdued lighting with floating plants.

The species exists in a number of different colour forms or phenotypes. A "gold" and "silver-blonde" form exist in the Rio Negro drainage which have less blue in the longitudinal stripe. The normal form from the Rio Negro drainage has a blue stripe which extends to the adipose fin, while the Orinoco drainage phenotype has a stripe which stops posteriorly of the adipose. The Orinoco phenotype may represent a subspecies of P. axelrodi.

Breeding

The cardinal tetra, in the wild, swims upstream in large numbers to parts of its native river habitat that are completely enclosed above by rainforest canopy. Such waters are subject to heavy shading by the rainforest trees, and virtually no sunlight reaches them. Here, the fishes spawn in large aggregations. In the aquarium, a single pair can be conditioned for breeding, but the breeding aquarium not only needs to contain water with the correct chemical parameters cited above: the breeding aquarium needs to be heavily shaded to mimic the low light conditions of the fish's native spawning grounds. If the fishes are ready to spawn, the male, which will be the slimmer of the two fishes in outline, will pursue the female into fine-leaved plants: her fuller outline, which usually indicates the presence of ripe eggs within her reproductive tract, should be readily apparent at this point. If the female is ready, she will allow the male to swim alongside her, and together, the pair will release eggs and sperm.

Apart from the stringent requirements with respect to water chemistry, one of the major difficulties mitigating against success in captive breeding of the species is the nature of the newly laid and fertilised eggs. The eggs of the cardinal tetra are photosensitive, and will die if exposed to bright light. Consequently, after spawning, the fishes should be removed and the aquarium covered to darken it, thus providing the developing eggs with the conditions necessary for development.

Development

If the eggs are fertile, and kept in darkened surroundings, they will hatch in approximately 3 days at 28°C. Free swimming fry remain photosensitive for at least the first 7 days of life, and need to be introduced to increasing light levels on a gradual basis. During this time, they are approximately 4 mm in length, and require infusoria or liquid fry food. Newly hatched brine shrimp and other similar live foods such as sifted Daphnia can be fed to the growing fry at between 7 and 14 days of age. Growth continues at a modest rate, and the fishes assume full adult colouration only after a period of approximately 8 to 12 weeks, depending upon quality of food and aquarium water.

The characteristic iridescence of this and related fishes such as the neon tetra is a structural colour, caused by refraction of light within guanine crystals that develop within special cells called iridocytes in the subcutaneous layer. The exact shade of blue that is seen will depend upon the viewing angle of the aquarist relative to the fish - if the aquarist changes viewpoint so as to look at the fish from the substrate upwards, the colour will change hue, becoming more deeply sapphire blue and even indigo. Change the viewpoint to one above the fishes, however, and the colour becomes more greenish.